Interesting country, interesting people

The Maldives is a collection of over 1000 islands, spread across a vast area. We have been staying on a northern island called Kani, entirely occupied by Club Med. It is a typical Maldivian island, being small (about 1km in length) and partly surrounded by a coral reef. This reef creates a shallow lagoon between it and the island, forming an atoll - the word is actually Maldivian in origin
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Pictured above is Hussain, one of the staff at Club Med. He gave us some idea of the immense spread of the islands when he told us that if he wants to return to his home island of Gan, in the south, then the journey by sea takes three days!

Hussain has done very well for himself, since he never attended school. We were flattered that he wanted to spend a lot of time with us. We eventually discovered that he was eager to improve his English, and we were a means to an end.

Maldives

Yes, the Maldives is prettier than we imagined. An infinite number of shades of blue. The water is clear enough that you can see some fascinating marine life, without scuba or snorkeling.
Mind you, we met a couple from Canada who were scuba fanatics and the underwater video they had captured was breathtaking. Huge manta rays and serene turtles. If they forward pics to us, I'll load them onto this blog.

Bangkok's river

We're back in Bangkok for a stopover. This time we're staying on the river, the Chao Phraya. It is used heavily, by locals and tourists, who want to avoid the congestion on the streets. Ferries are fast and cheap - and you get to watch the monks (who travel free) at close quarters.

This long-tail boat caught our attention. It is festooned with the sorts of garlands sold everywhere in the city as offerings to the Buddha.

New friends!

While on our campervan stint, we met a great Aussie couple, Liz and Bill. They introduced us to Mandalay in Busselton - an early candidate for this year's best camp site. We got on famously, learning about: how to use campers' kitchens; where to avoid stingers; and what to feed hungry sheep-shearers.

After four days together on the campsite, we went our separate ways, they back to their home in Mandurah, and we to head south.

However we met up again at the end of our time in Western Australia: Liz and Bill had invited us to stay with them for a couple of days at their home.

They were kindness itself. Bill lent us bikes; Liz cooked great meals. They embodied the philosophy "what is ours, is yours". It was no surprise to learn that they both had Scottish ancestors.

Mandurah is an amazing location. On the coast, the town is developing a network of canals. So it resembles Miami. Beaches are staggering and almost deserted. Truly Liz and Bill have the most enviable of lives.

(Stingers are small jellyfish, found occasionally off some beaches.. Sheep shearers like lamb sandwiches and vanilla slices)

Forest fire tragedy

The national news here has been dominated by coverage of the horrendous forest fires sweeping South East Australia. The death toll is expected to surpass 200. Many of those who perished did so while trying to flee the fires, the latter sometimes traveling at 50km an hour.
The disaster has been assisted by abnormally high temperatures. In Melbourne the temperature reached 48.5 degrees a couple of days back.
Temperatures on the West Coast have, thankfully, been more moderate.

Wine tasting in MR

The vineyards of Margaret River don't (yet) dominate the landscape hereabouts. The instantly recognised acres of acid green foliage are still an anomoly among the many forests of South West Australia. Nevertheless they add hugely to the ambience of the region.

This pic was taken at Cullen Vineyards, one of the leading wineries in Margaret River. This year's crop will be picked shortly and the premium vines are netted for a month beforehand to deter birds.

Wine prices are high, higher in fact at the cellar door than in the nearby Bottle Shops. Not much of an incentive to buy. When we later asked our firendly wine bar owner who would pay £50 for a decent but not awesome new world claret, we were told that collectors snap up most of Cullen's best wines, leaving everyone else on allocation.

'Roos spotted!

Margaret River, about 40 minutes south of our camp site, is a fab place. Not only a wino's paradise and surfers' paradise, it has colonies of wild kangaroos. So late yesterday, we went in search of them. Here's Di's pic.


You can't get close up and personal: they are quite shy. And when they bound away, its the most amazing thing to see.

In town, we found a great wine bar. Owner has been a winemaker himself, so was great to talk to, and introduced us to another winemaker who happened to be drinking there.

The one thing that Margaret River doesn't have is a decent camp site. So, sadly, we didn't get to relocate here.

Camp site neighbours

This pic shows Doug and Vera, neighbours of ours at the Mandalay camp site in Busselton. They are well into their 80's, very spritely and great company.

They met during the World War II. Vera says they had no time then for courtship, so they're doing it now. Doug was in the navy, Vera in the army. She was posted near to here for look-out duty , so convinced was Australia that the Japanese would invade from the West. It was her first time away from home, and she described how she and the other female recruits would cry themselves to sleep every night in their bunker.

We hired cycles today to get into Busselton. Doug teased us that if we got lost, we were to phone him and he would rescue us.

The Indian Ocean at Busselton

The Indian Ocean is especially calm in the north-facing town of Busselton. Just 30km west, the coast is renowned for its surfing!

Busselton is instead famed for its jetty, 2km long. You can just make it out in the background to this pic. At its tip is an underwater observatory, where you can see the marine life close up without having to wear all that scuba clobber.

Taking a campervan South

We're moving on from Fremantle, heading south towards the wine-producing region of Margaret River.

We hired this 5 berth Ford Transit conversion from an excellent company called Go Camper.

Found a good camp site in a small coastal town called Busselton. Well equipped, it boasts a swimming pool (much needed in the afternoon when the temperature hits low 30's every day), free barbies and wifi.

Mind you, the most entertaining bit is the neighbours (not Neighbours - we don't catch up on soaps while we're on holiday, you know!) Everyone talks to you, suggests where you should go next. Our itinerary is now based on recommendations made by a couple we've become good friends with.

We'd like to stay here longer but the site is fully booked in a few days time. It gets invaded by old folk, presumably looking for good weather, company and a cheap lifestyle. They're called "grey nomads" here.

Dog Day Morning

South Beach has been our local during our stay in Fremantle. It is split in two by a breakwater, with the more interesting stretch being dog-friendly. Today, we arrived early-ish to enjoy the cooling breeze known locally as "the Doctor". There were a good 50 dogs on the beach.

Judging by the pooches' performances, they had all passed their advanced swimming badges. Great entertainment for anyone with a dog-loving gene!

No one stayed long. An hour or so is plenty of time for socialising and a refreshing dip in the calm Indian Ocean.